I'm not sure what to make of this:
Serious Eats' review of the Cantina Tacos
I mean, yeah, their opinion is different from mine. On the Internet, no less. Which means they are Nazi Satan. But all hyperbole aside, it's just so damn wrong.
First and foremost, there's the point of comparison - he compares them to the Taco Bell he ate as a kid. Basic, ground beef soft tacos. Even Taco Bell has evolved cuilinarily since then, especially when you consider that he ordered them without cheese or lettuce. Just flour tortillas full of Taco Bell orange ground beef.
I freely admit that, compared to such horrifying fuel for both the human stomach and my nightmares, the Cantina Tacos are an improvement. But.
Impressed that the steak tacos were actual pieces of beef! That is not a high bar. It's the same beef they've been serving in steak tacos and steak burritos for years.
But the most terrifying part is his description of the carnitas. He had almost the same exact experience that I had... but loved it. Wet, greasy, oozing pork is not a plus at fast-food quantity or fast-food quality.
Oh, and also, fast-food restaurants offering the illusion of higher quality products actually is a trend - one that's been going on for years now. So it's good that the author would like to think it could be a trend.
Based on the rest of the site, I can only assume this review is the result of foodie snob slumming, the accompanying low expectations, and the surreal shock of those expectations being exceeded. Whereas I, a food nerd who has never abandoned the humble white trash fast food of my youth, actually have the background to place Cantina Tacos in their proper context.
And the proper context is "Fuck that. If I want proper tacos, that's what the al pastor tacos at La Loma downtown are for. Taco Bell is for eating Taco Bell food at.
Comments
I live on Robert Street.
Thu, 08/12/2010 - 13:06 — samiratouAmong and amidst actual Mexican restaurants run by actual Mexicans selling actual and pseudo-Mexican food. There are lots of options for good tacos. A Piñeda, even, if you just want tacos. A new taco place opening up on Cesar Chavez. Yet it still has a Taco Bell. I wish I could say I had no idea why anyone would want Taco Bell when they could have real tacos for not much more money a few blocks away, but I think that guy epitomizes the reason why that Taco Bell survives.
It's wrong. Just. Wrong.
But that's the thing.
Thu, 08/12/2010 - 14:26 — Bryan LambertTaco Bell tacos aren't tacos. They're Taco Bell tacos. They're two completely different food groups. The desire for one will never be sated by the other, but it's a bidirectional relationship.
Just like I don't want Taco Bell serving two-corn traditional taqueria-style tacos, I don't want to go to Los Ocampo and find a Grilled Stuft Burrito. But sometimes I want to eat a Grilled Stuft Burrito.