And so we conclude our backwards trip through Chicago's food with the first night. We checked into the hotel after eight hours on the road, right near dinnertime, and the decision was unanimous. Someplace close to the hotel.

So out came the iPad, up came Urbanspoon, and I have to say, for the vicinity of an airport hotel, the pickings seemed pretty slim. A couple of $$$ and $$$$ Italian places, some delis, a McDonalds... but what's this? A Mexican place with high ratings and few dollar signs? I think that'll do the trick.

So a short drive and a single right turn later, and we were sippinng water and munching on chips and salsa at Laredo's. The water was about five percent chlorine, which made it borderline undrinkable, but other than that, things were looking up.

The first thing I see on the menu is tableside guacamole. Now, I've seen this on TV, and I know it's a bit gimmicky, but the fresher guacamole is, the better it is, and it doesn't get any fresher then when it's mashed in front of your face. While we were debating, the tableside guac guy came by with his cart, and all pretense of resistance vanished.

I didn't see everything that went into it, but it was two avocado's worth of guacamole - a very healthy amount for about eight bucks plus tip. And man, was it good, with thick, hearty corn chips. Better than my own, even. And I make a damn fine guacamole. I'm eating some right now, in fact - with green garlic, onions, lime, and chiles.

The entrees were nice, overall. They're the kind of entrees in the kind of Mexican restaurant where everything comes on a plate with rice and beans. The rice was average, the refried beans were above average. I had carne asada, which was a nicely grilled piece of skirt steak with good flavor, a bit of grilled scallion, and some tortillas. My memory is failing me beyond that, although someone had a side of cooked mixed vegetables that were overcooked and nasty.

But certainly, if I found myself back in Chicago, staying near the airport, a trip back to Laredo's would be on the agenda for some more guacamole and a few of the other interesting things on the menu. Especially when it's that or a strip-mall Quizno's that's not even on Urbanspoon's radar.