Fickle Fork of Fate

Buffalo Wings, Attempt One

There's no picture, because they were... not photogenic in the slightest.

I shouldn't really call this Attempt One, because I have tried doing this on a number of occasions in my life over the past two decades, but this is my first attempt in a very long time, and my first attempt in my new, bloggy attempts to master and perfect new techniques.

This was mainly prompted by seeing an article a few weeks back about an ideal way to do chicken wings in the oven. This is important to me, because I don't have a deep fryer, and wings are traditionally deep-fried. Unfortunately, I don't know where the fuck I read the article. It passed my eyeballs amongst the torrents of data that flow in front of my eyeballs every single day, and all I could remember from it was oil, a rack, 400 degrees, and 40 minutes. And I couldn't even double-check those numbers.

So that's what I tried. I first marinated the wings in a mix of canola oil, garlic powder, salt, and a bit of the traditional cayenne hot sauce. I figured this would both coat the wings in the oil they'd need to oven-fry and crisp up, and impart some flavor in the process. I left the chicken in the marinade for a couple of hours.

After 40 minutes, with one flip halfway through, the skin was still pale and flabby. I upped the heat to 500, and gave them another five minutes, which at least tightened up the skin and started to brown it, but it still wasn't right. I'm thinking that at least another 20 minutes at 400 would be called for. Maybe it's my oven, maybe I needed to do fewer wings on a rack, but clearly, whatever the technique for perfect oven wings is, it eludes me.

I had more success with the sauce, of course, but the sauce is simple. It's melted butter and hot sauce. There are no other ingredients, and anyone who tells you differently is making something other than Buffalo wings. All that remained was to determine a ratio. I wanted plenty of vinegar tang, but not too much heat, because first, I'm not the only one eating them, and second, honestly, I find the heat aspect to be about fourth on the list of why I eat chicken wings. I like 'em when they're spicy, but I like 'em when they're not spicy, too.

So I did some experimenting. Well, sort of. I started with one tablespoon of melted butter and one tablespoon of hot sauce, and I liked it just fine, so I stopped experimenting. If you're into atomic-style hot wings, this will not cut it for you, but for me it was just about right.

Now I've just got to figure out how to get wings crisp and browned in my oven.

 

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Steam 'em first, then roast

Steam 'em first, then roast them to a delicious crisp on a parchment-lined pan.  Saw it on Good Eats and it really works.  When I'm feeling lazy, I simply roast for 45 minutes, but this requires me to wash the pan.  The parchment cannot contain all the fat that's rendered from the wings.

Aha, similar to what he does

Aha, similar to what he does with the duck. Worth a try.

This requires a bit more

This requires a bit more time, but it's time just sitting in the oven or the fridge, not time spent working on it. I learned this from the Momofuku cookbook. It's really easy, almost foolproof, and the results are absolutely spectacular. Basically, you cook the wings by confiting them; then you quickly brown them in a hot pan to crisp them up.
Get a shitload of good rendered fat - bacon fat, duck fat, chicken fat - whatever you happen to have or like. (I use a mixture of duck and bacon fat, because that's what I happen to have in the house.) 
Sprinkle the wings with salt, and then pack them into the smallest dish that will fit them all. Pour the melted fat over the wings until they're just covered. Then put them into a 250 degree oven and cook for a couple of hours. You don't need to watch them - the oven is low enough that they won't burn, and because they're cooking slowly in the fat, they won't dry out.
Then take them out. Brown them quickly in a really hot cast iron pan. You don't need to put any oil in - the oil coating the wings from confiting them is enough. They'll crisp up really quickly. Then toss them with your hot sauce.
(They're even better if you can put the dish with the wings and the fat into the fridge overnight.)
When you're done, take the fat that you used, put it in a tupperware, and freeze it. You can re-use it about 20 times, depending on your freezer. (It gets damaged by the freezer, not by the cooking.) And after it's been used a couple of times, it'll make the wings taste even *better*.

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